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            A dog wailed in the woods between my cottage above Staré Ledečko and the Sázava River, which had roared during the night but now was muffled by mowers and birds and that dog and other dogs. Was it one of the wild dogs who’d killed two of my host Roman’s sheep last week, or a domestic dog wounded by them? Roman’s 10-year-old son had warned me after supper, before I walked the dark trail to the guest cabin. “Kousaji,“ he kept saying, “they bite,” and only when he imitated not a little nip but a lunging chomp did I understand.             “So there are some wild dogs,” Roman said. “What can you do?”             Central Bohemia’s Posázaví or SázavaRead more.

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All day had been bitter cold in Liberec and now it was dusk on the outskirts, in a pub.             “So, feel like walking a bit?” my Czech friend asked over beers. Snow fell outside.             “We can call a cab up the mountain for you,” his wife, five months pregnant, gently offered. Shamed, I relented.             “I guess I can try it,” They were excited to hike straight up Ještěd mountain on a steep trail to its space age hotel. In the dark. In pelting early December snow. We hauled on thermal underwear in the bathrooms, paid for our beer and soup, and started up the dirt road behind the pub, into the Jizera mountains. I was becoming moreRead more.